When off shore power the inverter just shows 3 red lines and the red light is on for fault. The battery used to charge when the car is running but now its just blank as well. To provide more specific troubleshooting information on your inverter issue we need the make, and model of the inverter. It sounds as though you have an issue on the inverter side or even the batteries? When you are connected to shoreline, the converter or charger is running and showing you the Does your inverter have a reset switch that might have gotten tripped?
If you have checked these out, I would get your batteries checked first and then the inverter as this should all be under warranty? When we brought the trailer home, it was connected to 30 AMP service at the house that I had installed for a welder prior to the trailer purchase.
I know that it provides the rated amperage. The problem has also occurred when connected to the post at campgrounds. We have had the trailer plugged in for extensive periods, weeks at the house, but only hours at the campgrounds, when the problem has arisen.
Switching various lights or the refrigerator off would silence the alarm, but when turned back on, the alarm would sound again. I unplugged and reconnected the cord from the post numerous times without success. After leaving the power unplugged for several hours, I was able to plug it back in and everything worked normally for two more days until we departed the campground or weeks at the house. Our surge protector, Surge Guard , normally shows three green LEDs during these episodes, although once, it did indicate reverse polarity when first reconnected to the house service.
I have not found anything unusual at the control panel, but I do suspect that the converter has been replaced, and by someone who may not have known what they were doing. I say this because the converter was accessed by hacking through the wood on the side of its compartment instead of through the distribution center, and the Molex connector has electrical tape wrapped around it.
The shop that physically checked the trailer said that everything worked correctly for them and that it was because the battery was disconnected. I suspect that everything worked correctly for them, as it has for us at times, and they just reconnected the battery, which is a brand new marine model.
The last one I spoke with suggested that it might be an external circuit added by a previous owner. This circuit is to several external lights and is connected directly to the positive battery terminal, interrupted by a 12V automotive switch, and grounded to the frame. The circuit does not presently work, but I have not done any troubleshooting on it.
The solid copper grounds, from the converter, in the rear storage compartment, do have corrosion on them due to water entering that compartment as well. All leaks have been fixed, a new roof installed, etc. First I would suspect your CO detector operates off volt DC power from the house batteries since it will sound the alarm but go off when items are shut down and the batteries are allowed to recharge?
My guess is the battery is probably a discount store battery that is not sufficient for the power demands of an RV? Probably a group 24 with limited amp hours and is probably already gotten sulfation on the plates due to improper charging?
Deep cycle batteries need to be charged with a multistage charge every month or sulfation will form on the plates and not provide the energy storage they were designed for. If the battery is sulfated, it will draw down to volts very quickly which would make the CO detector chirp. Shutting off other lights and such will allow the battery to regenerate somewhat which is why the CO detector shuts off.
Winnebago is using Napa Deep Cycle batteries as the lead plates are thicker, welds are more secure, and they last! Then replace the converter! My husband says the batteries are working, because the pop out will go in and out when we are not plugged in. Any ideas why this would be?
My ac was working one min and then its like we are not getting any elec. I have a Heartland Fuel , my 30 amp fuse is tripping when running generator. Appliances on are AC, ceiling fan, radio, lights and skillet. That should be a standard load. How do I prevent this? We were having issues with our AC not working properly so switched over from 30 amp to 50 amp extension cord. How do I visually determine if we have blown a fuse?
Non contact voltage sensor unreliable. Get someone hurt or cause them to damage equipment or start a fire. I have a Horse trailer with a factory conversion. For the past 17 years it has operated normally in all aspects, Recently while towing I received a warning from the truck that there is a wiring fault and the trailer is disconnected.
Although the marker lights, brake lights, etc are all functioning. When I disconnected the trailer from the truck the marker lights were still on. I suspect drawing from the onboard 12 volt battery. The lights finally went out when the battery ran down. When I connect the V ckt, I get all the running lights, etc. Any recommendations?
I suspect a converter replacement required there B-W manufacturing series A model Is the voltage drop a sign of a bad ground? The outlets in the bedroom always work but the rest of the outlets in the rv work when they feel like it. Can you tell me why the coverter box is getting hot and making noise. When I plug the camper into electric, the lights and fridge settings are flickering and pulsating.
We have a Jakyko Eagle 12 SO, when hooked to power supply the outlets work but when we try to plug in the battery the only thing that comes in is the carbon monoxide detector. The deep cell battery is fully charged and I replace the 4 car type fuses and the color units are all up and appear fine.
What should we try next? Is this something in my Solitude or the park power supply? In a keystone laredo, just arrived in New Orleans from Orlando fl, where everything worked fine.
Everything was working fine this past weekend. We had to use electric heaters along with our furnace. Came home, plugged the RV in and I set up our heaters cause of the cold temps we had. Check in the morning and both heaters were dead. Replaced the GFCI, and still no power. Rest all have v AC. What is going on??? I have a Keystone Montana 5th wheel. We are having problems with the power and cannot find the Battery to check it. If anyone knows where it is located, I would be forever gratful.
On 5th wheels the battery is usually located in the front or side storage compartments. If it is not there, I would check under the stairs and underneath the rest of the RV. Some manufactures would put them in a box that is mounted to the frame and can only be accessed by crawling underneath the unit.
It has to have ventilation to the outside, so if in a compartment it would have to have a vent. If there are no vented compartments, it is most likely under the stairs or mounted on the frame underneath. I hope this helps! We would like to offer you a special promotion for your first-year membership.
I have power on the two main red and green wires that go to the battery on the right side of the fuse panel. The ones that go directly to the house battery. Inadvertently shorted out both green and red wires at the battery. Heard a whining sound that increase to a pop sound. Now no power to the furnace. But somehow have power to lights and refrigerator both plugged in and unplug from Shore power. Totally confused no power under any circumstances to furnace those are the only 12 volt electrical appliances.
Also have AC unit works fine plugged in. Totally confused how I can have no power at the fuses but some appliances work anyway. Totally confused trying to get my furnace to work when it works before I shorted out house battery wires with sure power connected to inverter. There could be a couple areas that could have the issue. It is possible the fuse panel was damaged itself.
When checking the fuse panel, connect the negative lead to the negative wire coming from the battery. Then use the positive to check the terminals on the fuse holders, on each side when a fuse is plugged in.
If there is no voltage to the furnace fuse terminal then the fuse panel itself has an internal failure and would need replaced. If there is voltage there but not at the furnace you would want to inspect the furnace. If the AC and furnace run off of the same thermostat, that is a good thing. The furnace gets the 12v power from the thermostat. You would want to check the furnace itself next. This switch will also trip if there is a short or high amp draw going to the furnace. If this switch is OK, check the voltage at the furnace board.
There could be a problem with the board itself. Tracing the voltage loss one component at a time is the best thing to do. You said there was no voltage at the fuse itself so I would double check and make sure that is accurate before proceeding to anything else.
Again, if there is not output voltage to the fuse and everything else is still working the fuse panel could still be bad. You could temporarily move the wire connection from the furnace at the fuse panel and switch it to another fuse and see if it turns on.
This will tell you for sure that the fuse panel has a faulty terminal spot. Converter problems. When plug into shore power everything is fine, but when power is disconnected to dc power to the ratching relay to disconnect the batteries for storage.
I own a Jayco Redhawk when I plug into shore power no electrical works. I have an electrical problem. Using just my battery everything works. When I plug into shore power everything stops working. Trip to Big Bend all is fine. We get home bathroom plug and plug to main TV have no power. All other plugs are hot.
Any suggestions? If the other outlets on the GFCI circuit are fine, there is most likely a problem with the connection on that outlet or the one that it feeds off of. There are usually only a few circuits for the outlets so a lot of times they feed off of each other. If there is a bad output connection on one outlet it will cause the other ones to not work properly.
The same will go for the TV outlet. Before taking apart the outlets I would check the breakers and make sure nothing is tripped. You also want to check all of the connections there as well, the hot, neutral and ground wires. Most likely it is the outlet it is feeding off of though. Really removing and inspecting the outlet connections is the best thing to do. Is there a reset? Trying to solve a problem.
Been on our second trip and the power would cut off and come back on. Refrigerator and out side outlet would stay on. Any suggestions. Thank you. We do have a promotional offer if you are interested. This would include access to expert advice like this , plus discounts, hours of Premium videos, etc. Please feel free to take a look. You can message us right back with your question if you decide to become a member and you will have a response within business days from our experts!
Click on the Premium Membership offer. The Checkout page will display your Premium Membership purchase. Fill in your Billing Details and create an account password. Finish by clicking Complete Order. If you have any further questions, please contact Customer Service at at your earliest convenience, or chat with us on our site. We have a heartland cyclone toy hauler. After only a few seconds it kills the generator. If we unplug the microwave the generator works fine.
My converter is WFCO 55amp power converter. My battery is new This May I used the furnace the first night and off and on the next day. I shut it off. The next day in the morning it seem to work again. The furnace would be the only thing running in the evening because lights are out!.. The fuses for both 12 volt and volt seem to be working correctly. Can you help with any direction?
We just bought a Fleetwood Savannah fith wheel trailer. Everything was working fine and suddenly we lost power at all of the outlets , breakers and fuses look good.
Part number A White exterior weather protective cover for a 15 amp GFCI outlet. Comes with an outdoor cover and mounting gasket.
This is the most common 15 amp plug inside and outside Coleman and Fleetwood pop up campers. Part number Power outlet for 15 amp service. This style the power wires pass straight through the back of the outlet.
Comes with outlet, backing and faceplate Part number B Comes with screws and white face plate. LED light monitors system status. This 20 amp black receptacle is designed for air conditioner power. Commonly installs inside an outlet box. Black exterior weather protective cover for a 15 amp outlet. Comes with an outdoor cover, 15 amp plug, and mounting gasket. Two lid design. Designed and UL listed for use in RV's. Unlike residential detectors these detectors were subjected to additional rigorous tests including; shock, Fits standard sized volt powered outlets.
The same type you see in your homes. High quality 15 amp male to 30 amp female power adapter. Allows you to plug your 30 amp camper into 15 amp power. Provides stable handling when plu High impact strong plastic construction.
Hardened rubber construction. Allows you to plug your 30 amp camper into 50 amp power. Provides stable handling when plugging your camper into 50 amp service. A large pull handl This is the main power cable that runs from the pop up, and plugs into the 30 amp power pole at the campground. Bulk mode is maintained for 4 hours max. Normal and Trickle Modes are the only charging modes your battery should ever require when you properly maintain your battery.
Trickle Mode will keep the battery safely charged when your RV is not in use. Some RV and battery manufacturers believe high-voltage charging can potentially damage the battery if not absolutely required.
The key to long battery life is proper maintenance. Keep the battery terminals, top, and sides clean and free from corrosion, dirt, and grime. When the RV is not in use, keep it connected to a trickle charging source that will keep the battery safely charged, or disconnect the battery completely by removing all wiring connections from the battery terminal posts.
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